By Kevin Melman
Vermont Craigslist back in 2019 was a treasure trove. Between free mobile homes, several acres of land where payment was only a promise to mow the grass and basements in historic barns, I saw many potential places to plop down a business. It just had to be a business that used space efficiently, had low start-up costs, and felt meaningful. That’s when it hit me – mushroom farming!
I’d been a mushroom lover for years, foraging wild edibles and growing gourmet mushrooms in college dorms and closets. Was I influenced by eye-catching YouTube videos claiming you could make $100,000 a year growing mushrooms in a garage? Probably. But was I determined to make my dream work, even if I was in over my head? Absolutely. The clickbait was convincing, but I quickly shifted focus to financial planning, mentor seeking, and constantly re-evaluating the business’s longevity.
Fast-forward five years, and FUNJ Shrooming Company has grown from a backyard project into an organic-certified, year-round operation producing hundreds of pounds of mushrooms weekly. This growth was made possible by rallying help from loved ones, funneling savings into the farm, and reinvesting every sale - a story familiar to many independent small business owners.
Starting a small business this way is often celebrated in the American Dream, but today's mushroom industry reflects a broader tension between efficient corporations and upstart local entrepreneurs. Around 66% of America’s mushrooms in 2021-2022 were produced in Pennsylvania, mainly around Kennett Square. These are primarily Agaricus bisporus – the white button, crimini and portobello mushroom with which we’re all familiar. So, where do specialty growers like me fit in?
The answer lies in diversification. While sales of Agaricus mushrooms declined by about 14% from 2019-2022, specialty mushrooms saw a 30% increase in the same period. Consumers are eager to try new mushrooms, expand their culinary repertoire, and enjoy health benefits. Small-scale growers have a significant edge in providing the freshest products to local markets, especially with sensitive varieties like oyster mushrooms that don’t hold up well bouncing truck-to-truck in long supply chains. Specialty growers find their niche in a slowly decentralizing market by offering high-quality mushrooms that must be produced locally to maintain their quality.
Specialty mushroom growers and mycologists often dedicate their lives to discovering new growing methods, breeding new strains, or developing relevant technology. Unlike corporate funding rounds, advancements in this field usually come from the DIY grower community, where knowledge-sharing creates a mutual aid system. Everyone benefits from lifting one another up rather than keeping secrets.
When I started FUNJ in 2019, there were over 300 specialty mushroom growers in the US, and today, it’s estimated there are over 500. The market is growing, but can it sustain all of us? In this budding industry that feels more like a community, competition is inevitable, but perhaps we can continue to carve out new spaces while maintaining our sense of shared purpose. Fresh mushrooms dominate sales, but the market is growing for value-adds such as functional mushroom extracts (mushroom supplements known for their potential health benefits like modulating stress and improving immunity), mycelium-based goods (such as packaging), and packaged foods (including dried, frozen, canned, pickled, and powdered).
Whether the specialty mushroom industry will face booms, busts, or a bubble remains to be seen. Some growers may transition from local farms to corporate entities, following the Agaricus industry’s path. In a rapidly evolving sector balancing decentralization and consolidation, long-term success may lie in our tight-knit mycelial network of DIYers brave enough to give mushroom growing a shot.
Kevin Melman (he/him) owns FUNJ Shrooming Company in South Burlington, VT and can be reached at kevin@funjshrooming.com.
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