Chelsea Green Publishing, 2019. 272pp. $22.79
Reviewed by Jeremy Donnelly
Chris Smith’s The Whole Okra arrives like a refreshing burst of flavor, an ode to an often underappreciated vegetable that a passionate cultivator and culinary enthusiast champions. The author's work is like a summer market stand, brimming with color and life, pulling you in with the sweet promise of knowledge and the bright allure of simple, sustaining joy. Let’s unravel this vibrant historical heritage, set against the backdrop of the okra plant’s journey, from potential origins and pathways to the field and, finally, to the table.
At its core, Smith’s book is not merely a gardening guide but a celebration of the okra, a southern delicacy that has stood the test of time, literally. This evocative story weaves together the agricultural wisdom, culinary wonders, and cultural significance of okra, showcasing it as a pivotal character that demands recognition and appreciation. The narrative starts with a charming prelude to the lifecycle of okra itself, cleverly personifying it like a friend whose lifetime contributions go unnoticed. Here lies the genius of Smith’s storytelling; he creates a sense of personality into the pages, crafting an emotional connection between the prospective gardener, seasoned cook, and the humble vegetable itself through the use of humor with the turn of every colorful page.
Referring often to historical and cultural humble beginnings, Smith roots his appreciation for okra in time-honored traditions. Readers explore its origins in West Africa, where it danced under the sun long before it made its way to southern American kitchens. The lyrical prose rhythmically echoes the samba of past generations that proudly boast about the contributions of crops like okra to household meals. Smith provides a pivotal lesson in culinary history and ties each section back to vibrant historical figures and places, proving that the simplicity of this vegetable is wrapped up in human stories.
But what truly characterizes The Whole Okra is Smith’s fearless approach to inclusion. At times, he admits to his closeness to this majestic vegetable — his candid reverence weaves itself throughout, making it impossible for readers not to appreciate gumbo. He harmonizes elements of growth, harvest, and preparation — none overshadowing the other but overlapping blissfully. Readers' imagination marinates in vivid descriptions of verdant garden beds kissed by tropical breezes whilst indulging in the savage satisfaction of chopping, frying, and savoring the distinct blush that okra lends dishes.
Guiding the reader through informative chapters on the mechanical aspects of okra production, Smith shares the stories of farmers — tireless cultivators of the land — fused with olive-toned wisdom that offers insight into sustainable farming and food sourcing. His focus leans heavily on the bounty won by strategies both innovative and conscious, urging readers to reckon with their food choices as we tread a precarious line concerning our harvests and their environmental impact. Much like the diversity present in the okra varieties themselves, Smith highlights the intricacies of historical communal farming practices, urging readers to protect biodiversity with similarly committed fervor.
Smith draws connections that are often overlooked, and parables are addressed through sensory experiences, with recipes shared as lore, creating a cross-generational thread where food isn’t just sustenance but narrative. Like a wonderful meal with multiple courses, each chapter is powerfully paired with mouthwatering recipes — fried okra, gumbo radiating spices, and pickled preparations that dance across the tongue. It harkens back to the communal sharing of food, reminding us all that cooking is decorated in the history we leave behind — the cook's legacy embedded within each recipe.
Smith is aware enough to assure his readers do not remain passive observers. Throwdowns into kitchens worldwide have readers passionately coaxing smoky-steamed eulogies from newfound recipes. It is within the myriad textures of reading with one hand and whisking with the other that okra is not just merely surviving but rather thriving. It teaches us that cooking is not just recovery but that food is medicine for our bodies, minds, and spirit.
The Whole Okra triumphs as more than a culinary guide. It is an exploration, nurturing the untamed spirit alongside personal tales grounded in ruin. In this delicious tribute bound between simplicity and nuanced lore, Chris Smith invites us all. Whether a gardener, chef, or plain foodie, The Whole Okra is nothing short of essential reading to broaden not just our culinary experiences but also our understanding of such a powerful plant. Bon appétit!
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